This plug s connects the stereo to your vehicle's electrical system, and also makes the speaker connections. You need to unplug the factory stereo from the wiring harnesses, and unplug the antenna to complete the removal process. Decide whether you want to crimp or solder the wires together.
Crimping is faster and easier. If you crimp the wires together, be sure to use the correct size crimp connector. Typical in-dash stereo wires are gauge, however, a few use heavier gauge power and ground wires. There are several types of crimp connectors, including bullet connectors, butt connectors, or crimp caps.
Soldering creates a permanent, professional connection that ensures maximum current transfer. We strongly recommend that you use heat-shrink tubing and a heat gun to insulate the soldered connection. Avoid taping the wires together — the tape will dry out and fall off, exposing the wires and making it only a matter of time before something shorts out.
Power: Usually, it is best to make all of the new stereo's wiring connections via the wiring harness, but if you have to make a direct power connection, you need to know the difference between "switched" and "constant" power. A switched power source is only on when the ignition is keyed — connect your new stereo's main switched power lead to a switched power source, so that the stereo will turn off when you turn off the car, and not drain your vehicle's battery.
A constant power source is always on — connect your new stereo's memory lead to a constant power source, so that you don't lose your stereo preset, sound shaping, and clock settings every time you turn off the vehicle. A rare few high-powered stereos require you to make a direct constant power connection at the positive terminal of your vehicle's battery. This requires a heavier gauge power wire, an in-line fuse usually included , and a ring terminal to connect the power wire to the battery clamp.
You will have to route the power wire through the vehicle firewall and into the engine compartment in order to make the connection at the battery. Ground: A good ground connection is vital for proper stereo performance. If you are not using a custom wiring harness, look for a bolt, screw, or wire that contacts the bare metal of your vehicle's chassis.
Loosen the bolt, slip the ground wire underneath this is almost always a black wire , then tighten the bolt. If your ground wire doesn't contact bare metal, your stereo won't operate. A loose or weak ground connection can result in signal noise interfering with your music. In-dash video wiring: If your new stereo has a video monitor built in, you will also need to connect a wire to your emergency brake circuit's ground wire.
This wire acts as a switch to turn on the video monitor when the parking break is engaged. Follow the instructions included with your in-dash monitor to locate the emergency brake ground wire. If the original stereo was bolted into the dash, you might need to remove the mounting brackets from the sides of it and attach them to the sides of your new stereo. If a mounting kit is required, install it first.
Then slide the new stereo's metal mounting sleeve if included into the kit. Secure the metal sleeve by using a screwdriver to bend the sleeve's metal tabs into place. Once the dash opening is ready for the new stereo, hold the stereo near the opening. Connect the stereo wiring adapter to the vehicle's wiring harness and plug in the antenna cable.
Slide the stereo into the dash opening, but don't fasten it down just yet. First, test the stereo to make sure everything is working properly. Part 2. Match up the wires. Each harness connector is unique, so it should be easy to figure out which ones fit together. The wires are color-coded; however, the wires on an after-market stereo may not match with the color-coded wires in your vehicle.
It's best to study and follow the wiring diagram that came with the stereo. Connect the matched wires. There are two options for connecting the wires, crimping or soldering. Crimping is faster and easier, but soldering will provide a more stable and secure connection. Bundle wires using zip ties instead. Assemble the mounting kit. If your new stereo came with a separate mounting kit, assemble it according to the stereo's instructions it will often mean fitting a metal housing sleeve into the mounting frame.
Push down on the tabs located around the metal sleeve with a screwdriver to secure the metal sleeve in place. Connect the power source. Typically, if you have a wiring harness, this connection will be made when you connect the new stereo harnesses to the harnesses in the car.
Determine whether your car has a switched power source typically a red wire or a constant power source typically a yellow wire. Some vehicles even have both types of power sources. For more information on switched versus constant power, go here. Ground the stereo. If you're using wiring harnesses, this connection will be made when you connect the harness pieces.
If you aren't using a wiring harness, you'll need to locate the bolt, wire, or screw that connects with the car's bare metal chassis. Loosen the bolt, wire, or screw and slip the stereo's ground wire usually black underneath, then tighten. Note that the ground connection is important to the optimal performance of the stereo.
If the ground wire doesn't connect to the bare metal, it won't work. And if the ground wire connection is loose, it could result in poor audio output. Sand down the area with sand paper to ensure a good connection. Connect the remaining wires. Plug in the antenna cable and connect the stereo's wiring adapter to the the car's wire harness.
Connect the output converter if one is needed to make the new stereo compatible with the car's audio system. Have in mind that all wires should be connected in the end and there should no single one hanging unattended.
Test the stereo. Test the fade and balance settings to be sure the speakers are working properly. Turn the power back off. Part 3. Push the stereo into place. When the stereo is fully in, you should hear it click into place. Reconnect the components. Fasten in any screws that are needed to hold the stereo in place, reconnect any wired components, and replace any knobs or drawers that were removed. Snap all the pieces of trim back into place over the stereo. Double check that all screws and trim pieces are securely in place.
Try out the new stereo. Turn the car power on again and play around with the stereo and its settings to be sure everything is in working order. How do I replace a Jeep radio with a Pioneer radio by matching the wires manually? It should be red to green, orange to purple, maroon to turquoise, pink to silver, and clear to black.
Not Helpful 1 Helpful You have to buy an adapter cable. If you buy from a store like Radio Shack, you may be able to get the salesman to come outside and help you install it For free!
Not Helpful 1 Helpful 7. If I have an aftermarket Pioneer radio, and want to replace it with another Pioneer radio, do I need a new wiring harness? Not necessarily, just compare the harnesses and once they match, you can go ahead. Not Helpful 3 Helpful The radio can drain the battery, but should not short it out. Not Helpful 7 Helpful Where can I connect an amp remote if a stereo does not have a remote on cable?
Use the factory fuse box. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 4. What do I do if the stereo won't work after I disconnected it and put it back together? Check your connections. Make sure you have 12 volts to hot wire and a good ground. Some head units have a separate wire that must go to voltage for the display separately. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 4. Some people consider them the same. However, I would say that a booster is a 'go between' only to increase the power input to a subwoofer or set of subwoofers , whereas an amplifier is to increase the power to all channels.
Not Helpful 0 Helpful 2. I have a second hand Peugeot with a hole in the dashboard where a radio used to be. Is it a simple case of plugging in some connectors to a new radio unit? This will work only if you replace with a stereo with same connectors. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 1. No, but it doesn't hurt as a good safety precaution to prevent electric shock.
Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0. Very often, yes. Retailer sites like Crutchfield and Amazon will show you what's needed to connect a radio you bought there to different makes and models of car.
They're usually not strictly necessary but can simplify the installation. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. If you need help deciding what to buy, go to an electronics store or a store specializing in auto electronics and ask for assistance choosing a stereo.
If a stereo does not fit there are may be an aftermarket kits available to make it fit. For more information, go here. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. Some retailers may offer to install your stereo for free or minimal cost if you buy it from them, so be sure to inquire. When removing any screws or nuts, place them in the car's cup holder so they don't get lost.
Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0. To make joining the wires easier, see if there is an adapter that connects your old harness to the new stereo. Follow the specific instructions provided with the new stereo. Some of the installation steps may be specific to your car and stereo. Helpful 13 Not Helpful 4.
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